An unconventional technique makes this vibrant rice – finished with dill fronds – a lower-touch dinner for weeknights

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This shortcut risotto will have purists shaking their fists, but I like to live dangerously. Unlike traditional risottos where you stir the whole time, this one gets bunged in the oven with all its liquid, then right at the end, use a whisk to release the starches for a creamy finish.

Use a microplane to grate the parmesan over the risotto. This will yield a cloud-like consistency, but you could also just blitz the parmesan to a crumb in the food processor before grating the veg. I’d avoid buying pre‑grated parmesan, as it’s kept crumby with anti-caking agent, and the aroma is … not great.

Whether you sizzle, sweat, wet-fry or oven-cook, enhancing the savoury flavour of your mushrooms will depend on the variety, says our panel of fun guys

How do I cook mushrooms at home so they have the umami you get in restaurant dishes?
John, by email
For Chantelle Nicholson, chef-patron of Apricity in London, boosting the savoury side of ’shrooms comes down to three main things. First, they hold a lot of water, so “you need to cook that out of them, so heat is super-important, as are fat and salt”. Tomás Gormley, chef-owner of Cardinal in Edinburgh, adds that he can “almost guarantee” that John isn’t using enough of the latter: “As a rule, I use 1.5% of the weight of whatever I’m seasoning. With mushrooms, especially, season early, before they hit the pan, to draw out their moisture. That resulting mushroomy water then cooks the mushrooms while it’s reducing and concentrating the flavour.”

But there are so many varieties of mushrooms out there, and they all behave in different ways, so John needs to be using the right ones for the job. “If you’re making a soup, puree or paté, field, portobello or button mushrooms are fine,” Nicholson says. “But if you’re looking for a delicious sauteed mushroom, say, ideally you need something with less water content – chestnut, shiitake or blue/grey oyster mushrooms. Heat oil in a pan, then add the shredded or sliced mushrooms, and season with fine salt straight away.” Nicholson would be inclined to toss in a bay leaf and some thyme or sage, too, and maybe a smashed clove of garlic. “Cook over a high-ish heat until lightly golden, then add a bit of butter and keep cooking until golden. If you want to enhance the flavour even further, a splash of dry sherry works really well.”

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This tart uses the richness of red vermut to bring together the sweet and the nutty for a flavour explosion

In Spain, vermut is traditionally enjoyed as an aperitif, while pedro ximénez is often poured at the end of a meal, alongside dessert or a piece of cheese, say. In this tart, however, they come together to tell the story of the Spanish table in the form of pudding. We have a wonderful tradition of fortified wines, and while lighter sherries often hog the limelight, vermut and pedro ximénez deserve just as much attention. They’re both made from wine, but each brings something completely different to a dish. Here, vermut, which is infused with herbs and spices, gently perfumes the pears, while PX, with its rich raisin, fig and caramel notes, introduces a flavour that’s impossible to resist.