A new report has found many crops are far less nutritious than they once were, so we need to eat more of them. Here is how to get your five portions of fruit and veg a day, easily and affordably – and potentially increase that to tenWhen Eva Humphries first started working as a nutritionist, she met a client who had just found out he had high blood pressure and high cholesterol, and was on the verge of type 2 diabetes. He had no idea how to change his diet or lifestyle.The man broke down and cri
A new report has found many crops are far less nutritious than they once were, so we need to eat more of them. Here is how to get your five portions of fruit and veg a day, easily and affordably – and potentially increase that to ten
When Eva Humphries first started working as a nutritionist, she met a client who had just found out he had high blood pressure and high cholesterol, and was on the verge of type 2 diabetes. He had no idea how to change his diet or lifestyle.
The man broke down and cried for 45 minutes, leaving Humphries with “no idea of what to do”, she says. In the final 15 minutes of the session, scrambling for a quick but helpful message, she finally said: “When you look at a plate of food, can you just make half of it veg for me?”
Tabbouleh, apple, beetroot, minty yoghurt, oyster mushrooms … a riot of colour and autumnal flavours with every forkfulAutumn is a time of year when our meze plate becomes more comforting and generous, with earthy beetroot, sweet squash and woody mushrooms. The cooking is simple, but the flavours and textures are layered and kept lively with sharp vinegars and citrus. Each one of today’s dishes is considered individually, but also in the context of the plate as a whole, and how each element rela
Tabbouleh, apple, beetroot, minty yoghurt, oyster mushrooms … a riot of colour and autumnal flavours with every forkful
Autumn is a time of year when our meze plate becomes more comforting and generous, with earthy beetroot, sweet squash and woody mushrooms. The cooking is simple, but the flavours and textures are layered and kept lively with sharp vinegars and citrus. Each one of today’s dishes is considered individually, but also in the context of the plate as a whole, and how each element relates to the others to achieve balance and harmony. And, of course, always serve with pitta or flatbread to scoop up every last morsel.
Served together, this meze selection should feed four generously.
Tasty, spicy fritters to dip into coconut sambol as a snack or treat, or serve with avocado or egg for a more substantial supperThese warmly spiced fritters are inspired by the tikki-chaat carts found all over India, which sizzle fresh chickpea, potato or lentil patties on hot-plates until crisp, then slather them with chutneys. The coconut sambol ushers forth the flavours of south India – coconut, mustard seeds and lime; add a teaspoon of tamarind paste to increase the tartness, if you like. A
Tasty, spicy fritters to dip into coconut sambol as a snack or treat, or serve with avocado or egg for a more substantial supper
These warmly spiced fritters are inspired by the tikki-chaat carts found all over India, which sizzle fresh chickpea, potato or lentil patties on hot-plates until crisp, then slather them with chutneys. The coconut sambol ushers forth the flavours of south India – coconut, mustard seeds and lime; add a teaspoon of tamarind paste to increase the tartness, if you like. A good dollop of yoghurt is a must, and a fried egg or avocado on the side turns these fritters into a satisfying supper.
A deliciously humble lentil and spaghetti dish, and a meat-free riff on meatball pasta made with aubergine veggie-ballsSome plant-based pasta dishes are light, bright and summery – pesto genovese, tomato sauce, aglio e olio – but some have an umami and complexity that is normally associated with more carnal pleasures. Here are two. Pasta with lentils is a firm personal and family favourite – my mum and I make this dish whenever we fancy something really comforting, and the earthiness of the lent
A deliciously humble lentil and spaghetti dish, and a meat-free riff on meatball pasta made with aubergine veggie-balls
Some plant-based pasta dishes are light, bright and summery – pesto genovese, tomato sauce, aglio e olio – but some have an umami and complexity that is normally associated with more carnal pleasures. Here are two. Pasta with lentils is a firm personal and family favourite – my mum and I make this dish whenever we fancy something really comforting, and the earthiness of the lentils plays against grassy olive oil and parsley, and the texture of the pasta. True cucina povera – a humble meal, and deliciously so. Veggie-balls are also great things. Polpette (normally translated as meatballs) is just balls (of anything pulped), after all. They can be made of white fish, oily fish or vegetables. I particularly love courgette for its bright, green, fresh flavour, and, above all, rich, velvety, chocolatey aubergine. Of course, you can eat them on their own, but I also love them through pasta, as a vegetarian riff on spaghetti and meatballs.
Transform two tins of baked beans into this creamy curryMasala baked beans, tadka baked beans, curried baked beans, spicy baked beans; all avatars of spice-laced baked beans are a mainstay of British Asian kitchens. We were raised on this stuff – use as a toastie filler, to smother jacket potatoes, or scoop them up with roti. Enter baked beans butter masala. With a sharp sweetness, a versatile tin of baked beans already has all the foundations required to build a brilliant butter masala, so all
Transform two tins of baked beans into this creamy curry
Masala baked beans, tadka baked beans, curried baked beans, spicy baked beans; all avatars of spice-laced baked beans are a mainstay of British Asian kitchens. We were raised on this stuff – use as a toastie filler, to smother jacket potatoes, or scoop them up with roti. Enter baked beans butter masala. With a sharp sweetness, a versatile tin of baked beans already has all the foundations required to build a brilliant butter masala, so all we’re doing is dressing them up. I like to think of it as though the beans are donning a frock made of all the good stuff: butter, cream and spices.
This recipe is an edited extract from Modern Masala, by Sanjana Modha, published by Quadrille at £25. To order a copy for £22.50, go to guardianbookshop.com.
A well-seasoned and comforting meal to ease you into the autumn monthsAt this time of year, baked tomatoes stuffed with rice and surrounded by a packing-chip sea of potatoes are typical all over central and southern Italy, and in many other places besides. So much so that when I see a tray of those wrinkled red caps in a bakery or canteen-like tavola calda (literally, “hot table”), it doesn’t cross my mind that the hollowed-out tomatoes underneath might be filled with something other than rice.
A well-seasoned and comforting meal to ease you into the autumn months
At this time of year, baked tomatoes stuffed with rice and surrounded by a packing-chip sea of potatoes are typical all over central and southern Italy, and in many other places besides. So much so that when I see a tray of those wrinkled red caps in a bakery or canteen-like tavola calda (literally, “hot table”), it doesn’t cross my mind that the hollowed-out tomatoes underneath might be filled with something other than rice. It was only when the woman behind the counter was wrapping my two portions of cannelloni and four slices of margherita pizza that another person’s order alerted me to the fact that these tomatoes were in fact filled with breadcrumbs, chickpeas, sausage, cheese and herbs. Suddenly, the tomatoes were the most appealing item behind the steamed-up glass, and the only thing I could want. We were in Tavola Calda in Latina, just south of Rome, during the lunchtime rush, which is why I didn’t feel able to add to my order, but then I was dissatisfied with my lunch.
But dissatisfaction gave me a reason to pull Claudia Roden’s A Book of Middle Eastern Food from the shelf, for her chapter dedicated to stuffed vegetables, which draws inspiration from Turkish, Uzbekistani, Azerbaijani, Armenian, Greek, Egyptian, Persian, Syrian, Lebanese, Saudi Arabian and north African recipes. Having noted that almost any vegetable can be stuffed, Roden adds that the most common filling for a hollowed-out vegetable is a well-seasoned mix of chopped onion, minced meat, rice, chopped parsley, and maybe chopped tomato; and she then goes on to give seven filling variations – some with rice, some with meat (no pork), and with various herbs and spices. She also provides a not disappointing filling including chickpeas, which is what I have adapted, also with inspiration from the busy Tavola Calda, for this week’s recipe.
Snacks never tasted so good: spicy corn fritters with a lime pickle-spiked yoghurt, and king oyster mushrooms laced with blackberries, pomegranate molasses and soyKing oyster mushrooms are quite the centrepiece: relatively meaty and receptive to big flavours. Paired with a vibrant glaze spiked with sweet blackberries, tart pomegranate molasses and savoury soy sauce, every bite balances the richness with sharp, fruity acidity. But first some tangy, fresh fritters, celebrating fresh corn with an e
Snacks never tasted so good: spicy corn fritters with a lime pickle-spiked yoghurt, and king oyster mushrooms laced with blackberries, pomegranate molasses and soy
King oyster mushrooms are quite the centrepiece: relatively meaty and receptive to big flavours. Paired with a vibrant glaze spiked with sweet blackberries, tart pomegranate molasses and savoury soy sauce, every bite balances the richness with sharp, fruity acidity. But first some tangy, fresh fritters, celebrating fresh corn with an earthy base of gochujang, which works brilliantly against the lime pickle yoghurt. Creamy, crisp and the perfect treat.
Sometimes cooking is about celebration or indulgence, but there are other times when you just need a speedy but delicious midweek mealOf course, the act of cooking can be many things – joy, ritual, nourishment, comfort, celebration, indulgence – but this fish pie pasta bake and tomato and feta lentils are strictly about speed. Because, in reality, these are exactly the kind of recipes we all need in our repertoire, ready to whip out on a Wednesday night. Continue reading...
Sometimes cooking is about celebration or indulgence, but there are other times when you just need a speedy but delicious midweek meal
Of course, the act of cooking can be many things – joy, ritual, nourishment, comfort, celebration, indulgence – but this fish pie pasta bake and tomato and feta lentils are strictly about speed. Because, in reality, these are exactly the kind of recipes we all need in our repertoire, ready to whip out on a Wednesday night.
A delicious and triumphant blend of Levantine and Malay cuisinesThis is a dish with roots in ancient Egypt. There, it started life as ful medames, the famous fava bean dish lightly seasoned with cumin, garlic and lemon. Then it was, reportedly, brought to Johor in Malaysia by Arab traders. It has since been adopted and adapted with a fierce sort of love, plus more spice and a tin of baked beans. I adore it. It’s a very delicious dinner and a triumphant blend of two cuisines. Continue reading...
A delicious and triumphant blend of Levantine and Malay cuisines
This is a dish with roots in ancient Egypt. There, it started life as ful medames, the famous fava bean dish lightly seasoned with cumin, garlic and lemon. Then it was, reportedly, brought to Johor in Malaysia by Arab traders. It has since been adopted and adapted with a fierce sort of love, plus more spice and a tin of baked beans. I adore it. It’s a very delicious dinner and a triumphant blend of two cuisines.
This rubbly cousin of hummus is flavourful and satisfying at any time of day, served warm, topped with a colourful salad and just made to eat with homemade flatbreadsFew things make me happier than a bowl of warm musabaha served with freshly baked bread straight from the pan. It’s a combination that shouts comfort, generosity and the simple pleasure of sharing food. Across the Levant, musabaha is a much-loved breakfast or brunch dish, though I’d happily eat it at any time of day. Served with the
This rubbly cousin of hummus is flavourful and satisfying at any time of day, served warm, topped with a colourful salad and just made to eat with homemade flatbreads
Few things make me happier than a bowl of warm musabaha served with freshly baked bread straight from the pan. It’s a combination that shouts comfort, generosity and the simple pleasure of sharing food. Across the Levant, musabaha is a much-loved breakfast or brunch dish, though I’d happily eat it at any time of day. Served with the buttery, soft turmeric and nigella-seed flatbreads, it becomes a meal that is nourishing, intensely satisfying and perfect for gathering family and friends around the table.
Perfect for cooking in the heat, these light, fresh dishes that are bursting with flavour will have you falling hook, line and sinkerSummer is my favourite time of year to cook fish. There are so many fantastic seasonal species available and, so long as they’re properly fresh and of good quality, they need very little intervention. I often look for lightness, freshness and acidity to bring balance and lift to a summery fish dish, whether that comes from citrus, herbs or a sharp dressing, because
Perfect for cooking in the heat, these light, fresh dishes that are bursting with flavour will have you falling hook, line and sinker
Summer is my favourite time of year to cook fish. There are so many fantastic seasonal species available and, so long as they’re properly fresh and of good quality, they need very little intervention. I often look for lightness, freshness and acidity to bring balance and lift to a summery fish dish, whether that comes from citrus, herbs or a sharp dressing, because those elements enhance the natural flavour of the fish, rather than masking it. These recipes are ideal for relaxed summer cooking: full of flavour, yet straightforward enough for a midweek meal.
Simple spices, fresh coconut and a handful of lentils or nuts is enough to transform leaves normally destined for the compostPoriyal is south India’s version of sauteed spiced vegetables, and it can be made with just about any vegetable, though green beans or a leafy green such as spinach, moringa or amaranth are most commonly used. The vegetables are fried with onions and spices, a spoon of urad dal is added for texture (if you don’t have urad dal, a handful of cashews makes a delicious alterna
Simple spices, fresh coconut and a handful of lentils or nuts is enough to transform leaves normally destined for the compost
Poriyal is south India’s version of sauteed spiced vegetables, and it can be made with just about any vegetable, though green beans or a leafy green such as spinach, moringa or amaranth are most commonly used. The vegetables are fried with onions and spices, a spoon of urad dal is added for texture (if you don’t have urad dal, a handful of cashews makes a delicious alternative), and it’s finished with a grating of fresh coconut. This fragrant, spicy and flavoursome side dish also works brilliantly with the earthy flavour of beetroot leaves, and I like to serve it with boiled beetroot, yoghurt, chapatis or/and rice.
Sweetness and smoke are at the fore of these summer saladsWe are at one of my favourite times of the year, but also one of the busiest, with the world seemingly hell-bent on fitting everything in before the summer starts proper. For us, family birthdays abound, with celebrations to organise, cakes to dream up and a constant worry about finding the right presents. Our anniversary is mostly forgotten amid the chaos! What is not forgotten is our deep love of sitting outdoors over long summer evenin
Sweetness and smoke are at the fore of these summer salads
We are at one of my favourite times of the year, but also one of the busiest, with the world seemingly hell-bent on fitting everything in before the summer starts proper. For us, family birthdays abound, with celebrations to organise, cakes to dream up and a constant worry about finding the right presents. Our anniversary is mostly forgotten amid the chaos! What is not forgotten is our deep love of sitting outdoors over long summer evenings that appear to make time stretch magically, languorously. Whether it’s lighting the barbecue or simply turning to my ancient but beloved griddle, a bit of Butch Cassidy-style smoke and swagger is what I am looking for in my food. Chargrilling courgettes brings out their sweetness, and givesthem tantalising, smoky notes, while smoked chillies lend even the freshest salad some attitude. Happy days.
Long before becoming TikTok’s latest main character, food cultures around the world have been soaking and stewing beans to delicious effect. And yes, you can tone down the side-effectsFor months, TikTok home cooks have been spilling the beans on the nutritional power of soaking and simmering pots of cannellini, borlotti and black beans. There are more than 13,000 TikTok videos under the hashtag #beantok, with cooks claiming the humble legumes have alleviated their anxiety, perimenopause and infl
Long before becoming TikTok’s latest main character, food cultures around the world have been soaking and stewing beans to delicious effect. And yes, you can tone down the side-effects
For months, TikTok home cooks have been spilling the beans on the nutritional power of soaking and simmering pots of cannellini, borlotti and black beans. There are more than 13,000 TikTok videos under the hashtag #beantok, with cooks claiming the humble legumes have alleviated their anxiety, perimenopause and inflammation. Pair that with “fibremaxxing”, and the bean has found itself recast from back-of-the-pantry afterthought to wellness main character.
But for many cooks and chefs, none of this is new. Many beans we eat today are native to the Americas and arrived in Europe by the 16th century, and were so readily adopted into Mediterranean cooking that it’s now hard to imagine those cuisines without them. “The Tuscans are even known as ‘mangiafagioli’: bean eaters,” says food writer Emiko Davies, who points out that beans were once the everyday nutrition of a largely peasant population.
Ever since Stanley Tucci got me into fried courgettes, I’ve been obsessed. And, of all the ways I’ve used them since, this is by far my favouriteI had my head turned by fried courgettes while watching Stanley Tucci eat spaghetti alla Nerano (on Searching for Italy). So much so, in fact, that I went so far as to book a table at Lo Scoglio da Tommaso in Nerano while I was in Italy last year, only to be thwarted by a broken-down car. Still in search of the pleasure, my husband, Hugh, made that past
Ever since Stanley Tucci got me into fried courgettes, I’ve been obsessed. And, of all the ways I’ve used them since, this is by far my favourite
I had my head turned by fried courgettes while watching Stanley Tucci eat spaghetti alla Nerano(on Searching for Italy). So much so, in fact, that I went so far as to book a table at Lo Scoglio da Tommaso in Nerano while I was in Italy last year, only to be thwarted by a broken-down car. Still in search of the pleasure, my husband, Hugh, made that pasta when we got back home, and we slapped our thighs in amazement that so much flavour and pleasure could be achieved by frying courgettes until bronzed. I’ve been using them in all sorts of ways ever since and this is hands down my favourite.
A simple harissa and cream cheese sauce brings a flourish to this easy dinnerOne of my favourite kitchen shortcuts? Harissa and cream cheese mixed to make a sauce. The cream cheese rounds out the heat from the harissa, and together they work perfectly with everything from beans to pasta – or, in today’s case, both. Spring greens add welcome colour, and the whole lot is spiked with lemon at the end. It’s one of my most-made pasta dishes. Continue reading...
A simple harissa and cream cheese sauce brings a flourish to this easy dinner
One of my favourite kitchen shortcuts? Harissa and cream cheese mixed to make a sauce. The cream cheese rounds out the heat from the harissa, and together they work perfectly with everything from beans to pasta – or, in today’s case, both. Spring greens add welcome colour, and the whole lot is spiked with lemon at the end. It’s one of my most-made pasta dishes.
Dip tips: a good mix of North African spice, seasoning, colour and texture is guaranteed to get the palate excited for the meal aheadDips are never just accompaniments at our restaurant, the Barbary in central London, but a way of building flavour from the outset. They set the tone for the meal, so it’s important not only to have a variety of spice and seasoning, but also contrast in colour and texture, not least to get the palate excited straight away. These early-summer dips, inspired by the f
Dip tips: a good mix of North African spice, seasoning, colour and texture is guaranteed to get the palate excited for the meal ahead
Dips are never just accompaniments at our restaurant, the Barbary in central London, but a way of building flavour from the outset. They set the tone for the meal, so it’s important not only to have a variety of spice and seasoning, but also contrast in colour and texture, not least to get the palate excited straight away. These early-summer dips, inspired by the former Barbary Coast (Morocco, Algeria, Libya and Tunisia), are all best served with grilled flatbread, seeded crackers and fresh vegetables. The kaha kaha and machluta dips are both somewhere between a dip and a salad, and go especially well with grilled chicken, while the fava is good with grilled fish.
From beans, lentils and tofu to chicken, pork, beef and fish, experts weigh the health benefits and potential drawbacksDo you think you’re not getting enough protein? Debbie Fetter, an associate professor in nutrition at the University of California, Davis, likes to ask her students this same question. In a lecture hall of more than 500 people, “almost every hand shoots up”, she says.Protein is top of mind for consumers. A 2024 survey of 3,000 Americans suggests most are trying to eat more of it
From beans, lentils and tofu to chicken, pork, beef and fish, experts weigh the health benefits and potential drawbacks
Do you think you’re not getting enough protein? Debbie Fetter, an associate professor in nutrition at the University of California, Davis, likes to ask her students this same question. In a lecture hall of more than 500 people, “almost every hand shoots up”, she says.
Protein is top of mind for consumers. A 2024 survey of 3,000 Americans suggests most are trying to eat more of it, and research shows that foods labeled “more protein” are especially appealing to consumers.
A three-course, south Asian feast: spicy coconut dal, a cheesy toastie with a knockout pickle, and a fudgy, spicy halva cake to finishPublic institutions, from hospitals to museums, are the most international communities, both in the workforce and in those who visit. It’s something that became obvious to us when we were cooking our globally inspired meals for frontline workers at Kings College Hospital, London, during the pandemic. The menu at Café Jikoni, our new restaurant at the V&A East
A three-course, south Asian feast: spicy coconut dal, a cheesy toastie with a knockout pickle, and a fudgy, spicy halva cake to finish
Public institutions, from hospitals to museums, are the most international communities, both in the workforce and in those who visit. It’s something that became obvious to us when we were cooking our globally inspired meals for frontline workers at Kings College Hospital, London, during the pandemic. The menu at Café Jikoni, our new restaurant at the V&A East museum, speaks to the depth and breadth of east London’s diverse community, with dishes that cross borders, celebrate pluralism and taste like home – wherever that may be. After all, the best hospitality is all about making your guests feel at home.
The answer is probably more about absorption than quantity, say our panel of expertsI’ve been advised to increase the iron in my diet but, as a vegetarian preoccupied with getting sufficient protein, I’m at a loss.June, by emailLast year, a study by Randox Health found that almost one in three women who attended its UK clinics have an iron deficiency, which is to say that June isn’t alone. Yes, there are good sources that vegetarians can tap into, but we first need to address a few key points: “
The answer is probably more about absorption than quantity, say our panel of experts
I’ve been advised to increase theiron in my diet but, as a vegetarian preoccupied with getting sufficient protein, I’m at a loss. June, by email Last year, a study by Randox Health found that almost one in three women who attended its UK clinics have an iron deficiency, which is to say that June isn’t alone. Yes, there are good sources that vegetarians can tap into, but we first need to address a few key points: “The heme iron you get from animal sources – red meat and darker poultry, say – is in a form that’s slightly better absorbed than non-heme iron, which is found in the likes of beans, tofu and leafy greens,” says Dominique Ludwig, nutritionist and author of No-Nonsense Nutrition. This is where vitamin C is your friend: “When we eat non-heme iron and vitamin C together, it increases absorption, so it might be a case for having peppers or tomatoes with your tofu.” But there’s another potential hitch: “On a vegetarian diet, some of that iron can be blocked from absorption because of things such as phytates [a plant compound found in whole grains, legumes, etc], or tannins in tea and dairy,” Ludwig adds, so it’s not simply about how much iron you’re getting, but how good your absorption is.
“Women aged 19-49 should aim for 14.8mg iron a day, but after menopause that drops to about 8.7mg, which falls in line with men’s requirements,” Ludwig says. “If you’re vegetarian, then, you can’t just be having pesto pasta, you need to be eating beans, lentils, nuts, seeds, soy products, and leafy greens, too.” Tofu can have 3-5mg iron per 100g, cooked lentils 3-4mg, chickpeas 2½-3mg, cashews 6-7mg and sesame seeds 14-15mg. So, much like getting dressed, layering is important.
Oats in the morning are a no-brainer: “A 40g serving will give you 2mg iron, so have them with milled flaxseed and berries for the vitamin C,” Ludwig advises. The same principle applies to the likes of a tofu scramble: “Throw in some kale and tomatoes [again, for the vitamin C] and serve it with wholemeal bread, and you’re looking at about 7mg iron,” Ludwig adds. In other words, your day is getting off to a good start.